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MBFerts.com Feed Chart
Products | Stage #1: Unrooted Clone |
Stage #2: Rooted Clone |
Stage #3: Teen |
Stage #4: Veg |
Stage #5: Early Flower |
Stage #6: Mid Flower |
Stage #7: Late Flower |
Stage #8: Flush |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Clone Solution | 20mL/gal | 40mL/gal | ||||||
Insane VEG A | 8 mL/gal | 10 mL/gal | ||||||
Insane VEG B | 8 mL/gal | 10 mL/gal | ||||||
Huge Bud A | 12 mL/gal | 14 mL/gal | 12 mL/gal | |||||
Huge Bud B | 12 mL/gal | 14 mL/gal | 12 mL/gal | |||||
H & Vit Booster | 7.5mL/gal | 7.5mL/gal | 7.5mL/gal | 7.5mL/gal | 7.5mL/gal | |||
Early PK Booster | 7.5mL/gal | |||||||
Late PK Booster | 5 mL/gal | |||||||
Silica BOMB | 0.25 Gram/gal | 0.5 G/gal | 0.5 G/gal | 0.5 G/gal | 0.5 G/gal | 0.5 G/gal | ||
Amino Acid | 0.25 Gram/gal | 0.5 G/gal | 0.5 G/gal | 0.5 G/gal | 0.5 G/gal | 0.5 G/gal | ||
Carb Booster | 0.25 Gram/gal | 0.5 G/gal | 0.5 G/gal | 1.0 G/gal | 1.0 G/gal | 1.0 G/gal |
Notes:
1. The feed chart is designed to be used with Reverse Osmosis (R.O.) water. If you use City Water!
Since we cannot now exactly what elements are represented in EVERYONE'S water source. By using R.O. water, the gardener should be in a 7 - 15ppm range, and this should be the same no matter where you live in the world. If you have a reverse osmosis system and you can't get these low ppms to come out of your filter, either your filters are dirty, or you need a carbon pre-filter.
With our NEW SYSTEM. You will just feed MORE A/B to achieve MORE Cal/Mag. No different than Heavy 16, Canna, House N Gardens, Cyco, Etc.. NONE of these company's use or sell a CalMag products with their products, rather you just feed more A/B of either Bloom or Grow to achieve MORE CalMag
2. We have calculated each product's usage to give you precise ppm levels for each element. Follow the chart exactly, so you don't mess with these precise ppm levels.
NOTE: We are not at your garden, so if you see deficiency's feed more a/b, if you see the plants respond bad to that back it down until they're happy..
ALSO: We recommend using the SAME ppm/E.C. levels your plants are already accustom to NOW! That is of course IF YOU HAVE ALREADY BEEN GROWING using one of our EXPENSIVE competitors plant food line and are just switching to ours plant food line to SAVE A LOT OF MONEY and GET THE SAME RESULTS!!
3. You will notice that we have a few additives that we don't add to water to make a concentrate. We send you the powder, and you weigh it out per our feed chart instructions, and place it into the reservoir or feed bucket. However some of these powders clump together and don’t dissolve very well. Best result come when you take a small container filled with water, dump these powders into it, and dissolve them in this small container first. Once dissolved dump the contents into your reservoir pre-dissolved.
TIP:
You can measure these powders out (1) Time, just use/buy a container you can fill with the powders and mark the line with a sharpie on the OUTSIDE of the container. This way you can re-use this container with each feed and all you have to do is fill each powder to their line you made...
Example: If you right now feed your plants in the veg stage at 800-1000 ppm range. You would then feed our grow a/b in equal parts until you achieve the SAME 800-1000ppm, so that your plants have no clue you switched products, only your wallet does!
Break-Down of the Stages of Growth
1. Un-Rooted Clones Stage:
This is when you have first cut the clone or just planted the seedlings. No roots have developed, therefore the plant can't eat. The food is there so that when roots appear there is food for the plant to eat. This period can last from 5-14 days. Move to the next stage once roots can be seen.
2. Rooted Clone Stage:
This is the stage where the roots on the clone, or seedling, can now be visible. The clone is able to eat food now since it has a root structure. This phase can be from 1-3 weeks. The lights are on 24/7. Move to the next stage when you feel you have a large enough root mass.
3. Teen Stage:
In this stage, the plant already has a nice root mass, and the plant is now starting to grow vertically, and horizontally (with some training). The shoots are starting to multiply and the plant is adjusting to the higher ppm of food. The plant has now also been removed from the cloning chamber, and has been placed into the veg room.
The lights are on 18/6-20/4 7days a week. These plants can handle training and co2 can also be used to increase growth. This phase will usually last 1-4 weeks. Move onto the next phase once your plants can handle higher ppm of food and you really want to see them take off in veg.
Note: If these plants show deficiencies, check the pH. If the pH is in the correct range, move on to the next stage.
4. Veg Stage:
This stage is when the plants are big enough to handle more lights, food, and higher ppm of co2 etc. The best way to start this phase is with a transplant to a bigger pot, box, or system. Lights are on for 18/6 7 days a week. Fyi, allowing your plants to veg longer allows for a larger harvest. When growing medically, a longer veg can help you keep your plant count down by growing a couple large trees compared to a lot of little plants. This stage lasts as long as you want it to. Some will veg for a week and others for 3-4 months. The CHOICE is YOURS! Move onto the next stage when you’re ready to flip your lights to a 12/12 7 days a week schedule.
5. Early Flower/Stretch Stage:
This stage lasts for 1 week. In this stage, technically you are in flower. The lights are now switched to a 12/12 7 days a week schedule, and is a great time to transplant your plants into their final home, pot, container, system etc. Some prefer to transplant for the final time the last week of veg. Choice is yours!
Now just because you have switched the lights to 12/12 doesn't mean the plant instantly turns itself over to the flower stage. What happens is the plant slowly transitions over from veg to flower stage and this is called the early flower phase, or stretch phase.
It’s called this because the plant is still growing , or stretching, for a 1-3 week period (depends on the dna/strain). Some like this since they didn’t veg much and like the extra size they can get from the plant stretching, so they might let the plant stretch for 1-3 weeks , and then spray stretch stopper. However, for those of you who have properly vegged your plants and like their size, then the stretch stage is a waste of time.
This is why we had a product called the stretch stopper. This is a pgr, that if foliar sprayed ONLY one time at 3ml/liter. This will almost instantly stop the plants veg cycle and turn on its ability to start flowering almost immediately.
Stretch stopper is made with the pgr chlormequat chloride (CCC ) 99%. The rewards for stopping the stretch are huge. By stopping the stretch you can promote bud set 2-4 weeks earlier. This will give you more consistent, denser bud growth, and this can equal faster, larger harvests.
Note:
You don't have to use stretch stopper if you don't choose to, and FDA only approves ccc for ornamental uses only NOT FOR HUMAN CONSUMPTION, BUT THIS IS THE USA SO WE BELIEVE IN FREE CHOICE AND TO USE CCC AS A FOLIAR SPRAY 1 TIME IN SMALL DOSAGE doesn't show up on any lab test once the bud is harvested!
Fyi... the company Cyco uses it legally in Australia you just have to disclose it to the public AGAIN so YOU HAVE THE RIGHT TO DECIDE!!!
6. MID Flower Stage:
This stage is where your plants produce bud-set, then buds or flowers. The lights have already been switched to 12/12, and the stretch is over, because you have sprayed stretch stopper, or the plants are finishing up the stretch because you have NOT sprayed stretch stopper and are choosing to let the plant naturally transition over.
You will now start to use the early Pk booster.
This phase will vary per gardener, since different strains flower for different amounts of time, so follow these ranges below to help you figure out long to stay in this stage:
- 8 week strain you would be in this phase weeks 2-4
- 9 week strain you would be in this phase weeks 2-5
- 10 week strain you would be in this phase weeks 2-6
- 11 week strain you would be in this phase weeks 2-7
- 12 week strain you would be in this phase weeks 2-8
7. LATE Flower/Swell Stage:
This is the final stage of flowering. You will no longer use nutrients or additives after this stage. Some people run cooler night time temps in this stage to promote purpling. The purpose of this stage is to make the buds swell, or get thicker, and this is also where the buds/flowers will become more dense, or solid.
Real weight can be added onto the buds/flowers in this stage, and this can lead to a larger,more profitable harvest.
This stage starts by counting backwards from the day you want to harvest by 21days, or 3 weeks. This stage will last for 2 weeks or 14 days, and this will leave you 1 week for a flush.
- 8 week strain you would be in this phase weeks 5-7
- 9 week strain you would be in this phase weeks 6-8
- 10 week strain you would be in this phase weeks 7-9
- 11 week strain you would be in this phase weeks 8-10
- 12 week strain you would be in this phase weeks 9-11
8. Flush Stage:
This stage lasts for 1 week and starts after 2 weeks of swell stage. This is the last stage your plants will see before harvesting them, and it is meant to remove all the built up elements, minerals, fertilizers, metals etc. left in the plant. This is done so you are left with a cleaner tasting product after harvesting your crop.
No nutrients or additives are used in this phase, just our plant flushing product called Plant Flusher. Plant Flusher contains a EDTA mixture This compares to several popular EXPENSIVE hydro store brands of plant flushers sold for $50+ a Gallon.
The idea here is to chelate, or help the plants break down any elements, minerals, fertilizers, metals etc. left in the plant, and this is done so you are left with a cleaner tasting product after harvest. Some choose to add sugar, or flavoring additives, in this phase. This is ok, but if you know what you’re doing, the flowers will have a taste/smell that is way better than any orange or grape extracts that you can feed the plants right before harvest to manipulate the taste/smell. Choice is yours!